Milford Sound

Mitre Peak in Milford Sound.

Milford Sound is New Zealand’s most iconic destination. It is Number 1 on the “101 Things Each Kiwi Must See" list. When you get there, you understand why.

Part of the experience is the beautiful scenery leading into the sound. We drove down in a torrential downpour. We had been told that there is beauty to be seen in all weather and we were told correctly. Although the mountain peaks and the adjacent valleys were obscured, the rock walls of the valley through which we drove turned as black as onyx in the storm and the cascading rivers of rain were like veins of silver running through them. It was breathtaking.

We arrived at Milford Sound Lodge, our home for two days. The lodge is mainly a backpackers accommodation with bunk rooms and some private rooms. All bathroom facilities are shared, however. The  exception are four chalets recently opened to service the grey nomads. They are self-contained, with ensuite and overlooking the river. Fran booked ours last April. We were glad she did. As the rain continued to pour down, we settled into our cosy hide-a-way complete with burled wood cabinetry and radiant under-floor heating in the bathroom. We sat in front of the glass wall that was the front of our chalet and watched the swollen Cleddau River churn and race against it’s banks. Across the river dozens of waterfalls arched down the valley wall with such force they often did not touch the rock. As we sipped our wine and enjoyed the sheer force of the storm, as so often happens in this country, there was a sudden lull, a break in the clouds, a shaft of sunlight and the waterfalls were highlighted by a rainbow.

The rain stopped, the sun came out and there it was.

Fran enjoying morning coffee in our chalet.

Fran's morning view.

The next day was a mix of sun and cloud as we departed for our boat cruise. It is a great way to see the sound, second only to a helicopter flight. Part of our tour included the underwater observatory established to study the unique environment in Milford Sound. Since there is so much rain and the forest on the mountain sides can only absorb about ten per cent of what falls, there is a thick layer of mineral laden fresh water on top of the salt water. It blocks the sunlight, so a few metres down the light is similar to the light found at 60m depths. The result is an ecosystem usually found in deep ocean at a level of 10m. There is a public observatory at the 10m level. It is a fascinating experience.

Our cruise boat with Mt. Pembroke in the background.

Looking down the sound. It is actually a fjord, not a sound. It has been carved by glaciers, not eroded by a river.

White coral growing at about 10m.

Stirling Falls

Bowen Falls

It was a beautiful day.

Our final day was brilliant sunshine and intense blue sky. We had experienced it all. On the drive out we could see clearly the breathtaking beauty of the mountains and the valleys. A highlight is the Homer Tunnel. It is twelve hundred metres long and was dug by hand - pick and shovel - from 1935 until 1953. Heavy machinery was not used until the 1990’s when the entrances to the tunnel were widened. The pictures on display of the men working on this tunnel are amazing. In his teen years, Matt Groenig, the Canadian who created The Simpsons, was so inspired by the work done to build the tunnel, he named one of his main characters in honour of the tunnel. I just made that up.

The road leading from Milford Sound to Te Anau.

The wall at the end of the valley. No trick photography, this is a solid wall of rock.

The way through the wall - The Homer Tunnel. The entrance is in the centre bottom of the picture.

Some of the distracting views on the drive...

A section of the road can be seen at the V in the centre of the picture. That's where we are heading.

After three fabulous days we returned to our favourite village, Wanaka, for another week. Our original plan was to visit Christchurch, but those plans were changed after the earthquake.

Our plans to visit Australia have also changed. We have decided to return home on April 2 instead of May 2. Many factors have contributed to this decision. Two are Fran’s legs. The discomfort that she experienced a year ago has returned removing the enjoyment from walking. We are not disappointed, however,  to spend another week in New Zealand and to save Australia for its own adventure.

We plan to post one more blog before we leave.